A gloomy start
A gloomy start

Another trip from the archives. Usually a wet week (you’re supposed to budget extra days in case of floods) of backpacking through the northernmost temperate rainforests of Vancouver Island, we got super lucky and had a relatively sunny West Coast Trail experience in mid-August.

Thick foliage, an ideal hideout for dinosaurs
Thick foliage, an ideal hideout for dinosaurs
Walkways and ladders to ford the steep mud slopes
Walkways and ladders to ford the steep mud slopes

My memory is hazy about the details about this trip. What stands out is the unique beach camping, super lush forests, minding the tides for the beach talus-hopping, and heavy logistics (permit lottery, trailhead/end shuttles).

Vintage ship parts along the trail, from its historical origins as rescue access for ships that missed the sound and hit Vancouver island instead.
Vintage ship parts along the trail, from its historical origins as rescue access for ships that missed the sound and hit Vancouver island instead.
Camping in designated beach zones. You're allowed to forage a driftwood fire.
Camping in designated beach zones. You're allowed to forage a driftwood fire.
The fanciest two-story composting toilet
The fanciest two-story composting toilet
There were warnings about shin-high mud, but we didn't have it much worse than this D:
There were warnings about shin-high mud, but we didn't have it much worse than this D:
two people going out on a limb above the ocean (sitting on a driftwood log positioned over the water)
colorful green and orange washed out canyons by the beach
looking out of a cave, three people silhouettes
ocean and forest view, with lumps of land coming out of the ocean that look like mario islands
beach camp
sketching in front of a waterfall
that's a mario island
a lot of gulls taking flight from the beach, it's sunny
beach camp
Improbable burger restaurant mid-way (bring cash). I think they boat their supplies in.
Improbable burger restaurant mid-way (bring cash). I think they boat their supplies in.

I forget how I originally heard of this trail, maybe I read about it on a “best backpacking trips” list, or maybe a friend suggested it. It’s a very special place with the rainforest and the sea meeting in a moody tide of fog. But nearly 10 years out, I feel like I’ve seen a lot of special places that require less logistical backflips, and feel less contrived. I suppose a lot of popular trails now have similar levels of timed-entry and competitive permit gathering, so maybe the rest of the world has caught up.

Hand-line for large river crossings
Hand-line for large river crossings
The struggle is real
last beach camp